Wednesday, May 23, 2007
What have I learned so far about Sikaflex?
The canopy - see the previous blog entry - is now glued and the clamps removed. Pictures to follow.
What have I learned so far:
1. The -4 canopy is a very difficult shape to work with in order to get a good cosmetic finish. Perhaps my gun is to big! Having said this my confidence has already risen to the point that there is no way I would consider riveting it. I will sort the cosmetics of the bead line later.
2. The cleaner, -226, is a very efficacious liquid. It can find 'dirt' on surfaces I considered clean. Etch primer disappears with the utmost ease.
3. The primer, -209N, is slightly unusual to work with in that you can feel it grip the metal as you brush it on. Beware of one thing, it can spatter and I got one tiny blob onto a small area of Plexiglas that had escaped masking. It cleaned up easily with the cleaner but I would not want to have left it without attention.
4. The -295UV squirts out of the gun quite easily and it is NOT a material that is prone to sag. It largely goes where you put it. Where I found it quite difficult was getting a clean looking line when I finished it with a spatula. My difficulties were compounded by the fact that I perhaps removed the masking tape to get a sharp line, a little early. Removal sometimes had the effect of rippling the otherwise good surface. I can attend to all these issues once the material has cured, plus fill in the areas between the clamps and spacers.
5. Have more rubber gloves than you think you will need standing by. I have no idea but would guess I used 30 or 40 pairs in the space of two hours. They are cheap!
What I would like to know:
My outstanding question is what is the best way to fill in the voids where the clamps were, and how to add more Sikaflex on top of yesterday's Sikaflex? Should I remove old primer and put on new where the old is showing, or should I put primer on top of old primer after cleaning again? Should I put a layer of primer on old Sikaflex after cleaning, when I want to add more Sikaflex. I have not read anything about this yet, nor had a reply to my email to Sikaflex. Anyone know these answers?
What have I learned so far:
1. The -4 canopy is a very difficult shape to work with in order to get a good cosmetic finish. Perhaps my gun is to big! Having said this my confidence has already risen to the point that there is no way I would consider riveting it. I will sort the cosmetics of the bead line later.
2. The cleaner, -226, is a very efficacious liquid. It can find 'dirt' on surfaces I considered clean. Etch primer disappears with the utmost ease.
3. The primer, -209N, is slightly unusual to work with in that you can feel it grip the metal as you brush it on. Beware of one thing, it can spatter and I got one tiny blob onto a small area of Plexiglas that had escaped masking. It cleaned up easily with the cleaner but I would not want to have left it without attention.
4. The -295UV squirts out of the gun quite easily and it is NOT a material that is prone to sag. It largely goes where you put it. Where I found it quite difficult was getting a clean looking line when I finished it with a spatula. My difficulties were compounded by the fact that I perhaps removed the masking tape to get a sharp line, a little early. Removal sometimes had the effect of rippling the otherwise good surface. I can attend to all these issues once the material has cured, plus fill in the areas between the clamps and spacers.
5. Have more rubber gloves than you think you will need standing by. I have no idea but would guess I used 30 or 40 pairs in the space of two hours. They are cheap!
What I would like to know:
My outstanding question is what is the best way to fill in the voids where the clamps were, and how to add more Sikaflex on top of yesterday's Sikaflex? Should I remove old primer and put on new where the old is showing, or should I put primer on top of old primer after cleaning again? Should I put a layer of primer on old Sikaflex after cleaning, when I want to add more Sikaflex. I have not read anything about this yet, nor had a reply to my email to Sikaflex. Anyone know these answers?
Added 20 June '07. I am nearly finished with the Sikaflex now. To answer my own question, experience tells me this. For cosmetic additions, to bond Sikaflex to itself use the primer. If it is a structural bond onto metal or Plexi, remove old primer and add new.
Finally, in case you have not already found the main link to previous offenders experience start here. http://www.matronics.com/wiki/index.php?title=Gluing_Your_Canopy&redirect=no
