Wednesday, January 14, 2009

 

Tailwheel and steering chains.

At the time of writing, IKON has just short of 50 hours.

All works well at the back end, though I have found it difficult to adjust the steering chains. If you look very closely in this picture (double click it to get a larger version) you will see that I have a loop of lock wire to take up some of the slack. I have been somewhat surprised that this did not break on its first outing, but I do not see it as a permanent solution. I am still searching for that.

I would like the chains to be firm, but  without the spring compressed, when the tail wheel is off the ground, to ensure there is no unnecessary friction in the system. This would cause them to be very slightly slack when it is on the ground.

Built to plans, the rudder stops tangled with the splice on the rudder cable. Rather than move the stop, I bolted a small plate on, to bring them a little lower. This has worked well, and also means there is no wear on the rudder horn itself. I have used appropriate steel fittings at each end to further increase longevity. I do resent the weight of all this extra hardware. 

I contacted VANS about lubrication of the tail wheel pivot. They say it will be fine with plenty of light oil. I would have preferred a unit designed with a grease fitting because that always serves to pump the dirt away from the bearing, but that's not their approach. I am not short of dirt as you can see. I pump masses of grease through the tail wheel bearing, but I might well splash out on a new wheel and fork since this is not a very nice bit of hardware.

I can see some slight paint scratching on the fiberglass. I think the chain geometry is more important, so will just have to touch up the glass from time to time. In fact you dont see the scratches walking around the plain, only when you hold the camera down low to take pictures.

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